The Levi Strauss 501 straight-leg American jeans are a global classic that has remained relevant for over a century. Fashion Illiteracy presents an article for its readers on the history of these famous jeans, explaining why the signature color became blue, why the rivets on the pockets were invented, and what other features distinguish the original model.
“It’s Easier to Find Gold Than Good Pants”
Levi Strauss, who had come to the US from Germany, was selling tent fabric in a gold rush camp in California. His business was not particularly successful. The merchant nearly went bankrupt, and in 1850 he started working at his sister’s husband’s haberdashery store.
One day, a prospector complained that finding a pair of comfortable and durable pants was harder than finding gold. That’s when, in 1853, Strauss sewed the first jeans from the brown tent canvas he had on hand. They resembled overalls, but were essentially waist overalls (or trousers).
How a Storm at Sea Influenced the Color of the Jeans
It’s believed that the name “jeans” originated from the Italian port of Genoa. The fabric used to sew the pants was delivered from there, and the goods bore a stamp with the word “Genes.” Americans, in turn, began to pronounce this as “Jeans.”
There is a version that the signature blue color of the jeans came about by accident. When one batch of fabric was being delivered, the ship was caught in a storm. Barrels of indigo dye were being transported along with other cargo, and they broke, soaking the fabric.
Strauss, instead of considering the dyed batch ruined, used it for sewing. The pants quickly sold out. Since then, the color blue has become the signature color for the jeans.
Rivets on the Pockets
Since the gold miners would put heavy nuggets in their pockets and clip on tools, the pockets would often tear off. The solution was proposed by a tailor named Jacob Davis. He came up with the idea of using metal rivets, originally intended for horse harnesses, for reinforcement.
In 1873, riveted jeans began to be produced and were immediately popular among cowboys, farmers, loggers, and Native Americans. They cost $1.46.
Due to the increased demand, home production was insufficient, and the first factory had to be opened. Today, the classic riveted Levi’s jeans are known as the 501 model (the brand’s numbering system appeared in 1890).
In later models, rivets were only kept on the front pockets and removed from the back ones, replaced with reinforced stitching, to prevent scratching furniture and saddles.
Signature Durability and the Two-Horse Logo
The reliability and strength of Levi’s jeans became the brand’s calling card. Once, a train engineer reportedly said that he used the jeans to tie the carriages together instead of a broken coupling. He managed to drive the train to the station.
In 1886, a leather label was introduced as an advertisement, sewn onto the back of the pants’ waistband. It depicted a real experiment: two horses attempting to tear the jeans apart in opposite directions, but they don’t rip and remain intact.
The Sewn-In Tab
Starting in 1936, a small red fabric tab with the company name was sewn onto the right rear pocket.
Button Fly
It wasn’t until the mid-20th century, specifically 1954, that Levi’s models with a zipper fly began to appear. This is now the standard option for most modern jeans. However, the classic signature versions still use buttons, which remains one of their key distinguishing features.
The Subsequent History of the Levi’s Brand
The company flourished in both the 19th and 20th centuries, despite the World Wars and the Depression in the US. In the 1950s, a new surge in popularity began, driven by Hollywood. Characters in famous films started wearing the jeans.
Later, the brand gained a strong competitor in Wrangler. Their jeans also conquered Hollywood and became popular in the US.
In 1992, the price of Levi’s significantly increased after an expensive advertising campaign. The company remained committed to its classic models, while wide-leg jeans became popular in the 90s. Sales significantly dropped.
However, in 2006-2007, the company’s revenues sharply increased. Revenue reached $4.36 billion. The company is owned by the descendants of Levi Strauss, has a staff exceeding 10,000 employees, and its products are available in over 100 countries.
Signature jeans are still considered ageless classics and remain quite popular worldwide. The 501 model is one of the most legendary items in the fashion world.
As a reminder, we previously covered the history of the Chanel Little Black Dress. We also have an article on the history of Lacoste on our website.
