Chanel No. 5 is renowned worldwide as the top fragrance. But why was it given the name “Number Five,” and where, for example, is No. 4? The authors at fashionilliteracy.com explored the origins of this iconic name.
How many scents were there?
Perfumer Ernest Beaux prepared ten different versions for Coco Chanel’s review, each presented without a name and simply numbered from 1 to 5 and 20 to 24.
There could have been many more initially. The ten selected versions were the ones chosen by the perfumer for the presentation.
After evaluating them, the founder of the fashion house chose the fifth option. This fragrance became the main selection, while the others never made it to market.
Gabrielle Chanel’s favorite number
It’s uncertain whether Coco Chanel chose this particular fragrance because she liked it more or simply due to its association with her lucky number.
Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel considered the number 5 to be particularly auspicious, which might have influenced her choice.
Interestingly, the collection was released on May 5, 1921, or 5/5. When asked about the fragrance’s name, Coco mentioned that, given the release date, Number 5 would bring success to the scent. Thus, the bottle number became the name of the perfume, which eventually became a global icon.
The minimalist design
In the early 1920s, perfume bottles often featured unconventional shapes. However, Coco Chanel rejected this trend. For her, the focus was on the product rather than its packaging. She suggested a simple rectangular bottle.
The design was slightly modified in 1924 when the stopper was made to resemble an emerald with distinctive facets, and the bottle’s edges were rounded.
The label was minimalist—white, small, with a black inscription reading CHANEL No. 5. This classic design continues to exude elegance and timeless appeal.
The perfume’s composition
Gabrielle instructed Ernest Beaux to design a fragrance with a distinctly feminine and synthetic profile. It is known that during World War I, the perfumer served in Murmansk, specifically in the Kola Peninsula.
He developed the fragrance after returning from the war, inspired by the aromas he encountered during a summer polar day near the lakes.
The perfume features aldehydes, which were unstable in early versions, and neroli. Top notes include ylang-ylang, lemon, and bergamot.
The core notes of the fragrance are characterized by a bouquet of flowers—jasmine, violet root, rose, and lily of the valley, with a hint of iris. For the base, the composition is enriched with a harmonious blend of warm amber, mossy oakmoss, earthy vetiver, creamy vanilla, exotic sandalwood, musky undertones, spicy patchouli, and a touch of civet.
Previously, we explored the little black dress, as well as the history of Victoria’s Secret. You might also be interested in the now-discontinued fragrance – J’ai Ose.
