The History of the Lacoste Brand: The Polo Shirt and the Crocodile Emblem

The French brand Lacoste is instantly recognizable worldwide, thanks to its famous crocodile emblem. The brand is also most often associated with its classic polo shirt. Fashion Illiteracy has compiled the key moments from the company’s history and put together this piece for our readers.

Polo, “The Alligator,” and the Suitcase Bet

Photo: Wikipedia. Main Photo: Caste

In 1923, the captain of the French tennis team made a bet with player Jean René Lacoste: if Lacoste won a match, he would be given a suitcase made of crocodile skin. This incident led journalists to nickname Lacoste “The Alligator” in 1927 during the Davis Cup, a moniker he earned with his strong and aggressive playing style.

That same year, at the U.S. Open Championship, Lacoste wore a tennis shirt that he had designed and sewn himself for the first time. One version credits Lacoste with inventing the design, while another suggests it originated in England, linked to the game of polo.

Polo shirt. Illustrative image: fashionilliteracy.com

The unique knitted shirt with short sleeves was perfect for hot weather and allowed for comfortable play. This was a significant improvement over the long-sleeved shirts that were standard at the time and restricted movement.

The Signature Emblem

Photo: SJ

Inspired by the athlete’s nickname, his friend, artist Robert George, drew a green crocodile with an open mouth. The drawing was then embroidered onto the blazer Lacoste wore during tournaments, marking the first time a visible brand emblem appeared on a piece of clothing.

The Founding of the Lacoste Brand

Photo: Harrison Keely (Wikipedia)

The company’s history officially began in 1933. After retiring from professional sports, Lacoste founded his own company, originally called La Société Chemise Lacoste (The Lacoste Shirt Company). His business partner was André Gillier, the owner of France’s largest knitwear company.

The company produced white sports shirts with the logo prominently displayed. These shirts were intended for sailing, tennis, and golf—a sport Lacoste’s wife played professionally.

Further Development

Photo: Ingfbruno (Wikipedia)

In 1951, the brand moved beyond its classic white shirts, launching a popular line of colored clothing. A year later, the American company Izod began manufacturing and selling Lacoste products in the United States. This partnership lasted until 1993, when the French firm finally entered the American market independently.

René’s son, Bernard Lacoste, took over the company in 1963. Under his leadership, sales soared to 300,000 items per year, and production expanded significantly. In addition to shirts, Lacoste began producing fragrances, eyewear, watches, accessories, and casual and athletic footwear, among other products.

In the early 2000s, Michel, Bernard’s younger brother, took over management. During this time, licenses for various products were granted to several companies, and designer Christophe Lemaire led an advertising campaign that further increased the brand’s popularity.

Current State

Photo: Wikipedia

By 2012, the Lacoste family owned the majority of the company’s shares. Michel held over 30%, while his daughter Sophie and others held 28%. At the time, Maus Frères, a Swiss retailer and public company, owned 35%.

Following disagreements between Michel and Sophie, they decided to sell their shares in the fall of 2012. As a result, the Swiss company Maus Frères became the majority owner.

The brand remains quite successful, with over 1,000 retail stores. The company employs more than 8,000 people and has a turnover of €2.5 billion. Some products are manufactured by third-party licensees who have purchased the rights to produce specific items on behalf of the company, such as perfume, eyewear, and children’s clothing.

Like many other brands, Lacoste has faced criticism for working with Chinese factories. Their activities have been linked to the forced labor of Uyghurs and environmental pollution.

As a reminder, we have also shared articles on the Fashion Illiteracy website about the history of the Adidas and Puma brands, as well as the LC Waikiki company.

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