Cufflinks are a classic shirt accessory that looks far more impressive than ordinary buttons. They are one of the best ways to add confidence to a formal male look. The editors at Fashion Illiteracy have decided to take a closer look at exactly how to put on and wear this jewelry.
In this article:
Choosing a Shirt with the Right Cuffs
First and foremost, start by selecting the appropriate shirt. If you choose a standard shirt designed only for buttons, you cannot wear cufflinks without modification (such as adding an extra buttonhole). There are several options:
Classic French Cuffs (Double Cuffs)
French cuffs are the most appropriate choice. These long sleeves without buttons fold back on themselves, creating a thick, layered look.
The cufflink is threaded through four layers of fabric, ensuring comfortable wear and a proper aesthetic. Avoid ironing the fold flat; it is best to fold the cuff manually.
Single Cuffs
The Vienna cuff and similar styles are much closer to standard shirts than the French style. There is no need to fold anything here. They feature two buttonholes without buttons on two parallel layers of fabric.
The Universal Option (Convertible Cuffs)
There is a hybrid shirt suitable for wearing both with and without cufflinks. A button is sewn onto the inside, which can be flipped depending on your preference.
With the buttons flipped out, these are ordinary cuffs. However, if you tuck them inside, two loops are formed to thread cufflinks through, while the button remains hidden.
In this position, even the button can be fastened like a cufflink, leaving the cuffs “turned out” (sharp). This is an unusual but entirely viable approach.
Choosing Material and Color
When purchasing cufflinks, let the rest of your ensemble be your guide. They should match your other metal details in both color and design.
Primary consideration should be given to the tie clip; ideally, choose one from the same series. Your accessories should also match your belt buckle.
Equally important is coordination with your wristwatch, which sits in close proximity under the sleeve. Choose an understated dress watch; sporty, massive, or smart models will look out of place.
Common types of cufflinks include:
- Gold
- Silver
- With precious stones
- With initials and logos
- Novelty designs with unusual shapes
While many non-precious varieties exist, the foolproof classics for a suit are silver or white gold. If your other accessories share the same color and texture, the look remains harmonious.
Types of Fasteners
The most common type is the bullet back closure (with a rotating post). This is the basic modern version and the easiest to use. The rotating element is attached to a fixed post beneath the decorative face.
In the open position, it aligns with the post to form a straight line for insertion. Afterward, the element is rotated crosswise to secure the jewelry to the sleeve.
Other types include models with fixed backings, chains, balls, and reversible decorative sides.
Proper Placement Under Jacket Sleeves
When wearing cufflinks with a suit, the cuffs should peek out from under the jacket by approximately 1–2 centimeters. If they are fully visible, it is too much; if completely covered, it is not quite right.
While sitting or bending your arms, visibility may increase. With a correctly sized jacket and arms at your sides, the effect should be subtle.
The decorative side of the cufflinks should be positioned on the outside of the wrist, while the toggle (the fastening post) stays on the inside.
As a reminder, we previously discussed wide-leg men’s trousers, as well as how to wear a bandana.
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